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ON ASSIGNMENT: TAIWAN
The Winding Road to Smangus
An indigenous village balances autonomy with tourism
The journey to Smangus is difficult, especially for travelers prone to motion sickness. The last dozen miles up the mountain are rough, winding and narrow enough to require coordination on both ends, switching between up and down traffic every hour to avoid a head-on collision midway.
But the destination is worth the trip — the sheer beauty of Smangus is beyond question.
The village sits atop a mountain surrounded by valleys and forests, overlooking a wall of mountains to the south for as far as the eye can see.
The dominant element is wood. Wooden statues welcome guests outside the cafe, kitchen and dining hall, all built from and filled with furniture made of local wood and bamboo. The large wooden bear sculpture in front of the general store is a favorite selfie target for tourists, and Stephanie and I took a few of our own before heading up a winding dirt road lined with lampposts (carved from wood, naturally) to our lodging.
