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The American West — Riding Horseback With a Navajo Shaman

13 min readJun 6, 2024

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The Wild Landscape of Monument Valley (Photo — Chip Walter)

The Valley of the Gods

Monument Valley represents the wild, dramatic side of the American West. Hollywood made it famous, but time and geology created it. I knew I wasn’t alone in thinking that visiting here was a must.

Cyndy and I had been traveling for over two months now by train, ferry and the occasional rent-a-car, most recently from the Viking settlement founded by Leif Ericsson in L’Anse aux Meadows, Newfoundland, through New England and across the United States to Four Corners, the exact spot where the borders of Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah converge. Now our rental car was looping us through a misty winter rain, first northwest and then southwest into Navajo territory.

The land here is harsh, flat, unforgiving. Occasionally a faraway mountain or bluff might rear up, but mostly I saw iron-red rock, peppered with prairie grass and what locals call Mormon or cowboy tea that is still used as a medicinal herb. Even gnarled pinyon and juniper trees had deserted the land. Our little car rolled through the vast and empty spaces looking no larger than a matchbox toy.

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Read or Die — HQ

Published in Read or Die — HQ

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Chip Walter
Chip Walter

Written by Chip Walter

Chip Walter is a National Geographic Explorer, former CNN bureau chief, screenwriter & author of Immortality, Inc. His latest novel is entitled Doppelganger.

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