The Heroic Grapes of the Mid-Atlantic

A four-century-old exotic way to cultivate grapes so they survive through the winter storms.

The vineyards of Biscoitos, Terceira (Azores). All the pictures in this article are credited to the author.

On the northern coast of a volcanic Atlantic island, there is a patch of land where a unique way of growing vines persists despite the destructive effects of time. It’s a good example of how human culture can intertwine with nature and enhance the landscape in a picturesque, one-of-a-kind way.

I’m not a fan of wine, and a year ago, I knew nothing about grape vines. Now, there isn´t one day that the thought of vines, grapes, and wine doesn’t cross my mind, since I live in the middle of the old, traditional vineyards of Biscoitos, on Terceira — one of the nine Azorean islands.

When the first Portuguese settlers populated the island (around 1500), it was evident that the northern coast of Terceira would require creativity and labor to serve any agricultural purpose. Its soil was covered in a type of lava rock that resembled the biscuits the sailors were served when at sea. Therefore, the village's name is Biscoitos.

One who walks the path through the vineyards, appreciating the endless maze of stone walls, will likely surrender to imagination, picturing the laborious work that went into piling so many volcanic rocks to form walls that cross each other…